219. Inauguration

“Namaste”, the person greeted me in a typical Indian way; though he was surrounded by crowd.By reflex action, I too greeted him, but I did not know him. So I asked a stranger sitting next to me, “who is he?”

“You don’t know him?” he was surprised. Naturally, because it appeared that the person was the chief guest of the program. “He is our MP (Member of Parliament)” he explained. 

I could immediately understand why the MP greeted me. In the pavilion, we were only two women. The other woman was the Chief Executive Officer of the district, she was on the stage with the MP and he obviously knew her. I was sitting in the crowd; talking to people; taking photographs and writing important points in my notebook. Because of camera and notepad, people always assume that I am a journalist. Today, even the MP assumed so. That must be the reason of his greeting. 

The MP was curiously looking at me simply because he was unable to locate me in his memory. He called someone and asked him something. This person asked another person. I had no work, so I was watching the chain of communication. As expected, a person sitting to my right asked whether I was a journalist. Knowing that the answer would finally reach the MP, I briefly explained my identity – not in a spiritual way but mundane! I watched the message travel back and noted that the MP considered me a citizen with no nuisance value. 

I was in a small village in Rajasthan, in an inauguration of road construction under the Prime Minister Rural Road Scheme. No, I had no direct or even indirect connection with this scheme. However, while traveling into remote areas, have always seen lack of ‘Road, Electricity and Water’ as the key barrier to Development. Especially in the absence of a good (or even functional) road connectivity girls and boys have to drop out of school; sick people do not get timely and adequate treatment; vegetables are thrown or used as fodder for animals because they cannot be taken to the market – one can only imagine what the villagers must be thinking in such situations. I have favorable opinion about this scheme and I had never attended its inauguration – so I was excited with this opportunity. 

When we left the highway, and turned to left, this suddenly was visible – allover. The crop of Mustard looks so beautiful.  

Since it was a Government program, we were moving in a large convoy of cars. On the way, everybody in the villages stopped doing whatever they were doing and looked in bewilderment to the passing cars.

We again turned to left and I saw an empty pavilion. First I thought it must be for a marriage ceremony. Later I realized that it was the venue of the inauguration program. 

We crossed the pavilion and continued to travel by a road, which was a typical village road. I saw lot of men smoking in a relaxed way.  It had rained recently, so there was no work in the farm. Because of rain, winter had become more severe. Our car stopped at a palatial house. A well dressed, English speaking person, about 55 years old, received us. He was one of the senior officers in Delhi and this was his native village. A small villager person being in a distinct and prestigious position in the Capital of the Country was a journey worth appreciation. 

Within couple of minutes I realized that the PMGSY road that was to be inaugurated passed the house of the official. In fact the road was being constructed to make his home coming comfortable. Many senior government officers were present and listening to their discussion was very educative. Quality of cement, inter-locking tiles, load taking capacity of the road, the arrangement and space for taking into consideration the need of local farmers to put irrigation pipes across the roads … the senior engineers and experts were discussing a lot. I am not sure whether all roads are constructed by taking into consideration all these quality aspects.

After the round of tea, the servant of the house arrived with another tray full of something. It attracted my attention because none from our group picked up anything (and secondly the servant did not offer me). The servant went amongst the large crowd waiting in the front yard. I took this photograph when he returned.  

A lot is being spoken about the “dangers of smoking” – all that is futile – I realized then and there. 

We went back to the pavilion. With the arrival of the MP, the place was overcrowded within no time.  Then one by one, many people spoke. Fortunately, all the speeches were brief, but they were informative. The progress of PMGSY in the state was presented and the numbers were overwhelming. For example, I remember one official telling the crowd that in last eleven years 8860 new roads were constructed. These roads together sum up to 34795 kilometers and was able to connect 10703 villages. Impressive, isn’t it? 

I could see the unknown faces in those unfamiliar villages and could imagine how their life could have changed because of these roads. There is a point in arguing about destruction of ecological system and all that – but why apply this parameter only to rural roads? They are lifelines for many. 

After the program was over, I saw many women standing behind. Whey they were not invited to join the main function?  Whey they are always invisible? I spoke to them for a while.

We consumed typical Rajasthani food – Daal Baatee and Churama Laddu.

By the time we started for Delhi, the pendal was in the process of removal. Only the tablet of inauguration remained there. 

Will this PMGSY road be ever constructed, or it will always remain inaugurated – I wondered. 

May be this one will come into reality – because it is a native place of a senior government official. And since his brother lives in this village, the officer regularly visits this village. 

However, I am aware that all those roads whose plan is “inaugurated” are not lucky enough to come into Reality!  They die premature death!
* *

118. Concern

I had to travel from Jodhpur to Udaipur.

The primary teacher at Shiv (in Barmer district) Mr. Balaram had assured me that the Roadways (State Transport) has a good frequency of buses from Jodhpur to Udaipur. I wanted to leave Shiv early in the morning - but that meant disturbing the whole family: I was staying in the house of Mr. Balaram. So, after his insistence I agreed to catch 8.00 am bus which was supposed to take me to Jodhpur by 11.30. With the simple calculations everyone assumed that I would be able to catch bus at 12.00 noon and would safely reach Udaipur latest by 5.00 in the evening. It meant at least 9 hours journey at a stretch. But I had no options.

The Private Bus arrived at Shiv at the right time - sharp 8.00 in the morning. With the usual village concern, the driver and conductor were requested to take care of me. The conductor nodded and offered 'best' seat to me. From the window I was able to watch beauty of Rajasthan.

Suddenly the bus stopped. On the road, a group of 10 young men were waiting for this bus. The driver and the conductor got down. There were loud discussions - I could not understand the cause as they were speaking in the local language. But something was serious. After lot of deliberations the matter was resolved and the driver and the conductor returned to the bus unscratched. Looking at me, the driver smiled, and said, "Don't worry Madam". I know when to worry and when not to worry - I knew that the situation demanded the second strategy, and hence I was relaxed. My only concern was lack of knowledge of local language - I almost missed that exciting conversation.

Shiv- Jodhpur bus reached at Jodhpur at 12.15 in the noon. I was not worried as I was told that the Jodhpur -Udaipur Roadways has a good frequency. The auto rickshaw driver suggested that I catch a private bus, but I rejected his suggestion and went to Roadways' terminus.

After reaching there, I was informed that the 12.00 noon bus had left and the next bus was only at 15.00 hours. On my question "'how much time it would take to reach Udaipur?"- I was told that I would reach after 10.00 in the night. The journey from Jodhpur to Udaipur was of more than 6 hours and not 4 hours as I was told.

I came out of the bus stand. An old auto rickshaw driver approached me. I told him that I want to catch a bus for Udaipur and asked him to take me to the right Private Bus terminus. He looked at me.
He asked, "Are you from Udaipur?"
"No, I am going there for work", I replied.
"Do you often go to Udaipur?" he had one more question.
"Oh! Not many times.. but I have visited the city earlier." I patiently answered.
"Are you traveling alone?" he asked another question.
I was little worried about this conversation. I mean it was none of his business.

"Yes, I am alone." I told him.
"Do you have any relatives in Udaipur?" the man was unstoppable.
"Come on Uncle, let us go", I tried to pass that question.

"Now, don't misunderstand me. But if you are traveling alone and you are new to the city, it is better you travel by Roadways," he said calmly. I was amazed at that statement.

I gave him a neat look. He looked tired, little older than his age. He was clearly a poor man, in need of money. His eyes were soft. He was not smiling because he understood that I was irritated at the conversation, but he was firm. I was not sure what to make of this.

"See Madam, I can take you to Private bus stand and I will get 50 rupees for the drive. But the Private Buses are reckless sometimes. The road is lonely, if some accident happens on the way, what will you do alone in the night time? The road does not have mobile range at times. So, I think it is better for you to travel by Roadways." he added very softly but confidently.

I could understand his concern. I had a fresh experience of Private Bus in the morning itself!
"The accident can happen to Roadways too", I muttered - not challenging him as such - but provoking him a bit.
"You are right Madam. Accident can happen to any bus. But Roadways drivers are not drunk - not at least when they are on duty. If something goes wrong, Roadways has its network and they will provide alternate vehicle to travelers up to Udaipur. Roadways won't ditch you on the road, it won't leave you to take care of yourself." he added.

I started smiling. That gave him more courage. He added, "And Private bus will wait for passengers and waste lot of time. On the other hand, Roadways bus moves on time. You will at most reach by 9.30 even if you catch a Private Bus at 1.00 noon. Why not wait here, have food, read paper, and then travel safely?"

I decided to follow his advice. I turned. But stopped. I said, "I understand that by giving me this advice, you have given up an earning of fifty rupees. I would like to pay you something for this good advise. I appreciate your concern. " By saying this I handed him a fifty rupee note.

He refused. I felt guilty because he actually was offended by my offer. I said "sorry" to him.

Then he said., "Don't count everything in money. It is my duty to make you aware of the dangers. I am happy that you are not adamant. I am glad that you will reach safely and that is my reward. Women when travel alone, should be more careful" he said.

Then he hastily added, "not because you are not empowered enough, but because the society is not sensitive enough!"

If only everyone around has such sensitivity! If only everyone is concerned in Right Way!

15. Not About Udaipur......

Couple of weeks ago, I had been to Udaipur. This was my fifth visit, but I had never been close to this city. Earlier I was always in a company. Cities, towns, villages, places don’t talk to you unless you pay special attention to them. This time as I was alone, I thought I will get to know Udaipur.

But this is not about Udaipur.

I can write about the Auto driver who drove me to Bandra terminus. From Shegav, he came to Mumbai in 1979. He told me that he was involved in some dirty business but lost peace over it and so gave it up. Now he is poor but satisfied soul. …. But this is not about Udaipur.

I can write about ‘youngistan’ in my compartment – constantly involved in vulgar jokes, rubbish talk. They were genuinely concerned that how people in Udaipur can live without Dominos and CCH (Café Coffee Day). …… But this is not about Udaipur.

I can share how I had to spend 24 hours without food, in spite of pocket full of money. But this is not about Udaipur. I can elaborate how during my return journey I was compelled to occupy upper berth for almost 16 hours …. sorry, this too is not about Udaipur. I am tempted to narrate a story of Marathi taxiwalah (what a surprise!!) who is in the business of driving taxi since 1962. He had a grand analysis of status of Mumbai and his comments on Raj Thakare, Congress, and people coming from other states to Mumbai were indeed thought provoking and humane. But alas, this too is not about Udaipur.

I can tell you how during Gujarat serial bomb blasts in July a ‘bomb squad member’ German Shepherd licked my feet on Udaipur station; how in the next round of vigilance the dog started wagging its tail. …. I can tell you about the driver who said that ‘nobody now belongs to Udaipur, and Udaipur belongs to no one, it is a lonely city’. May be, it is bit about Udaipur. I can tell you about food, roads, traffic, surrounding Aravali, big traffic circles and number of ‘gates’ in the midst of city. I can tell you how beautiful Udaipur railway station is. I can elaborate tourist economy and influence of Gujarat on Udaipur. It is something about Udaipur but then this can be about any city in the country

I went to Udaipur but I did not ‘meet’ Udaipur. Each place has a heartbeat, with which one needs to get attuned to. Each place has a story to tell, and one needs patience and time to get it first hand. Each place has its own voice….. one needs to be lucky enough to get close to it….

Unfortunately, Udaipur did not open up to me. It treated me as a stranger, because I carried too much of my world with me. I need to create space for Udaipur and wait for the grace to fall upon me. Then may be I will write about Udaipur.

But till then, it is not about Udaipur…..